After a few days of doing absolutely nothing in South Beach, we rented a car and headed down to over the Florida Keys to Key West – the most southern point of the U.S. Only about 100 miles (170 km) from Havana, Cuba, the Island did indeed have a Caribbean flare to it (although not like New Orleans). We stayed at a very charming little inn called the Southernmost Inn, where we of course ran into a Swedish family. Although Key West was touristy, it really had its own charm and I loved it! The beaches weren’t as good as in Miami but the islanders had established a unique tempo and this atmosphere of being a world apart from the mainland in a way that only exists on islands. Apart from walking around the island, eating a lot, and relaxing at the beach under an umbrella, we did a guided tour in the house that was Ernest Hemingway’s home for more than 10 years during his marriage with Pauline Marie Pfeiffer (And no, it was not the house that they used in the movie Hemingway and Gellhorn with Nicole Kidman and Clive Owen.) It was quite interesting to learn more details around Hemingway’s life – he really was lived life to its fullest but with oh so many ups and downs. And several of his children followed his path. Greatness does not guarantee a happy life!

Below are a few photos from around the island, the view from Hemingway’s home and of his study, and of real Key Lime Pie – so much better than the bleak copy we get here!

On a more superficial level, I can recommend a stop by the store Indigo on Duvall Street. It has mainly clothes and accessories (all of it handmade) and the owners (a couple originally from Lebanon) go around the world and buy things directly from independent producers and even design certain things themselves. I thought the things were gorgeous and such contrast to everything mass-produced today. It’s similar to what can be found at local markets around the world but everything is handpicked and they import from some 40 countries. I got a straw bag and a tunica for the beach. Unfortunately, they don’t have a website so shopping there requires a trip to Key West!  

After having undertaken highly ambitious holiday schedules for the past two years and gone on road trips across half the U.S., Jonas and I decided to pick a comfortable beach this year and do absolutely NOTHING! I know, very different from two years ago when we covered four national parks in five days, or last year when we probably saw every historic house managed by the Daughters of the American Revolution in the American South. This year, we decided to do none of this. Instead, we booked a room at the very nice and charming Park Central Hotel in the South Beach Art Deco District and basically just enjoyed food, drinks, and the sun.

I had heard so many different things about Miami so I had no idea what to expect, but I have to say that I loved it! Yes, at night, the Ocean Drive became a little like Las Vegas. But just like in Vegas, it was possible to avoid all that and just enjoy amazing food and a very relaxing atmosphere. The Art Deco District is the World’s largest in its kind and since I have a thing for urban architecture and planning, I loved the area around our hotel. Miami is a very international place and we learned that over 80 percent of the population has Spanish as their first language. At the same time, we also heard a lot of Italian, Eastern European languages, and Caribbean accents. Admittedly, we didn’t explore Greater Miami much but South Beach had the exact opposite atmosphere from DC – very relaxed and life indulging. Here are some pics:

Loved the Cuban food (and mojitos)! Best was Puerto Sagua but also Havanna 1957. Otherwise, the Italian restaurants held high standard, I can especially recommend Hosteria Romana on Espanola Way – their aged prosciutto and cheeses were delicious. Espanola Way was a good place in general for eating if looking to get off the Ocean Drive. The News Cafe was perfect for lunch.

Flight delays can be a real pain, but when a six hour delay at Dulles made me miss my connection to Stockholm some time back and they couldn’t book me on a new flight until the evening, I got the chance to finally see Amsterdam. Referring back to a post that I wrote some time back, the Netherlands is a place I’ve gone through by bus a few times and I’ve obviously been to the airport in for countless transfers, but that I’ve never actually been visited. I’ve almost been a little embarrassed about this, because Amsterdam is one of these place that everyone go to at some point, at least for a weekend. But now even I can say that I’ve been to Amsterdam. And I loved it! My first impression is that it’s like a non-ironic Euro-style Pleasantville. Everything is perfect but not artificial, people are really using the city and public spaces are devoted to them and not just businesses and cars. There are also lots of nice cafes and restaurants and bars (rather than just vendors of food and alcohol). People seem to be well-off, yet relaxed and enjoying life, hanging out on sidewalk cafes or cruising the canals in small boats. Kind of carefree in that way that you can only be if your don’t have to worry too much about money and how to be accepted. Knowing that it’s a liberal, open and welcoming society only adds to my positive impression. And then there are the tulips, of course! Who can not love a place with that much tulips?

The central station is only 20 minutes from the airport, so once I had rebooked the flight I had missed, I put my hand luggage in a locker and bought a train ticket to downtown Amsterdam. I didn’t even have a map, but just strolled around randomly along the canals. I obviously didn’t have time to go to any museums, but a waitress in the cafe where I had a late lunch (Brasserie Bâton), and girl in a shop (La Rosa Curiosa) gave me recommendations on where to go to see a few sites, and so I got to see the Royal Palace, Die Nieuwe Kerk, and areas with street art. I hope I get to go back soon because what I saw was great and I’d love to explore more!

My lunch? A sandwich with old cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, and mustard mayonnaise – a Dutch specialty according to my waitress!