Moldova

Freedom of Movement

For all of you who read Swedish, do check out Almost Moldovan Lars’ blog this week on the visa requirements for Moldovans going to the EU and the consequences it has for everyday life in countries where boarders (as for all countries) are artificially drawn, without consideration of the people living there. Only yesterday, I suggested that Doina and Valeriu could come along with me and Jonas for a few days on our road trip this summer, and they said “Yes, sure, but to Ukraine in that case, because for Romania, we need visas”. And getting visas is not as smooth for Moldovans as it is for EU-citizens or Americans. It is time consuming and often costly. So we didn’t even discuss it.

Despite being the focal point for migration issues in in my office, I have not written anything about this here yet. I thought about it many times but I don’t really know where to start. But I will try. One thing that I can say though is that you get a very different view of this when you start being a migrant yourself and when most of your friends are/have migrated in one way or another. Living in a country where about 25% of the workforce is abroad also gives another perspective. Economically, free movement of labor is quite an easy issue but politically, it is often less so. As an insider, and given what I hear from behind the scenes, I am convinced that over the longer term we will see a change in the political agenda on migration, at least in the EU. Politically, this is difficult, but many politicians are already convinced that this is necessary. Ok, guess I have to pull myself together and really write something on migration now, to explain everything. So, to be continued…But do check out Lars’ blog meanwhile!

My Life

A Bit Restless?

 

This weekend was probably the most boring weekend so far this year. It feels like I didn’t do anything at all! Most of my friends are out of town, and to be honest, I was not very pro-active in arranging things either. In addition, the weather was a bit boring: cloudy and windy, so it wasn’t so nice to just stay outside in a park and read either. Sometimes, I love these calm weekends, but this weekend, I was just bored. Here is what I actually did:

  • After work coffee with Ghenadie on Friday;
  • Quick appearance at small party Friday night with mostly IOM staff;
  • Work both Saturday and Sunday (but I was wasn’t very efficient, which was why I ended up spending time in the office both days);
  • Dinner and drinks Saturday evening with Erik, Cristina and Lars;
  • Sunday brunch at Delice d’Ange;
  • Studied several chapters in my Russian book;
  • Did some writing;
  • Finished the book that I was reading (Freakonomics: quite interesting – I recommend it, especially to non-economists who think that economics is an abstract topic);
  • Watched about 100 episodes of Veronica Mars; and
  • Cleaned a bit in my apartment.

Not sure why I was so bored and why it felt like I did absolutely nothing: I did do quite a lot, including hanging out with friends. Guess I am just a bit restless sometimes…

My Life

A Tribute to Summer

 

Is there anything nicer than summer?? I just LOVE this time of the year. I wish it could be like this all year around! When I lived in California (about 100 years ago), I remember that people in Sweden asked me if I did not miss the seasons. Eh, not really! Beautiful as fall may be, I can easily do away with gray, cold November days, those weeks in December and January when you barely see the sun, and April that in all movies is a lovely spring month, but which in reality anywhere north of Paris is a rainy month that sometimes even comes with snow or hail. The charm of seasons! And this instead of warm days when all you have to wear is a skirt and a top and a pair of slippers (at least if you are a girl in the West, for now anyway). Long days when you can stay out for hours after work without feeling tired the day after. Warm evenings when you can have dinner at a terrace without having to worry about the fact that you forgot your sweater at home.

 

Moldovans are not equally appreciative of warm and sunny weather. Perhaps this is because they have more of it than we do in Sweden (even though Moldova does have a four season climate with at times fairly harsh winters). But like all Swedes, I have learned to appreciate summer days and so it pains me to hear especially women here complain about it being warm and frown at the sun when we go outside. I get almost upset! But then again, already as a kid, I loved the story about the Cold-blooded Penguin and was full of sympathy for the penguin Pablo who escaped the cold for a tropically island. One of these winters, I will probably do the same. But for now, I am enjoying lovely, lovely summer!

 

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Weekend in Odessa

Yes, I know – not a lot of postings this week. Had my governance team here from DC and Kyiv and my days have been occupied with meetings and consultations, and of course a lot of football! So after a busy week, a colleague from Sida and I decided to drive down to Odessa over the weekend. Yesterday, we strolled around the city all day and spent a lot of time at sidewalk cafés. And now, I am laying in the sun on the Black Sea beach, pretending to study Russian by reading Russian Cosmo. Life is good!

Our World

Go Russia!!

 

I heard a really funny Russian joke today, which started after Russia won the World Cup in hockey:

 

If the oil price reaches US$ 110 per barrel, Russia will win the Eurovision Song Contest.

If the oil price reaches US$ 130 per barrel, Russia will win the European Cup in football.

If the oil price reaches US$ 150 per barrel, Japan will give up on the Kuril Islands and instead want to become a Russian province.

And if the oil price reaches US$ 200 per barrel, the EU will want to join the Russian Federation.

 

Regardless of what happen with the world oil price, I for sure have found a new favorite national football team – it is really difficult not to get caught up in the enthusiasm of the young Russian players. So Go Russia!!!

My Life in Moldova

The Worst Weekend of the Year to Live Abroad

 

Most of the time, I enjoy my life immensely. Almost every day, I reflect over how fantastic my life is and how lucky I am to get to work with what interests me the most, to get to live in different countries and get to know different cultures, and meet all the interesting people that I meet, just by working. I feel truly lucky and I really enjoy it. There is only one weekend of the year when I do not feel so happy to be abroad and that is on Midsummer (the Friday closest to the solstice). There is nothing more Swedish and not only is it difficult to celebrate abroad, it is totally impossible to celebrate it with foreigners because they never fully understand what it represents. Midsummer is the second biggest holiday in Sweden after Christmas and though the theories of its origin vary, it is a non-Christian celebration dedicated to nature and to the light that we see so little of during the winters. It is the one weekend of the year when everyone tries to go out to the countryside or in the archipelago, and those unfortunate enough to be stuck in the city on midsummer’s eve find themselves in an almost completely empty city. We celebrate it with family and friends, surrounding ourselves with wild flowers, eating traditional food, singing midsummer-songs and just enjoying nature. Every year I promise myself that I will make sure that I am in Sweden for midsummer and every year, I fail – there is always something preventing me from going. This year I did not celebrate at all. No other Swedes were here (they had all gone to Sweden) and I was instead invited to my boss’ house for dinner yesterday on Midsummer’s eve. I found myself talking quite a lot about Sweden – I am, as ever year this weekend, really homesick!

My Life

Tiered, tiered, tiered

 

This is how I have felt this week. After a very nice (but way too short) weekend, this week has been filled with football. After the dinner at Milestii Mici on Monday, I met up with some Austrians and others to watch Austria-Germany play. Tuesday, it was Romania against the Netherlands, and Wednesday the sad, sad match with Sweden against Russia. As we are one hour ahead of CET, I have not gotten home before midnight a single day this week. I am tired from football though not tired of football. I love the large football championships! Here in Chisinau, they have put up large screens in front of the opera, right next to the presidential palace, with stands selling beer and tables for people to sit and watch. Work has been ok, though, but since I have been so tired after the late evenings, my productivity has decreased with probably two thirds and so I have had to stay late anyway. Thursday, we got a few hours to complement an application that we had turned in for a fund, which of course messed up my schedule for the day. Since I already had another deadline for the day, I ended up staying in the office until past 9:30. But I have been given some nice feedback these past days from several persons, so I have gotten some renewed motivation.

My Life

United in Music

 

Was anyone really expecting me to post those albums that same day as I wrote my last blog? I am not sure if even I did… I do (as always) have a valid reason though: Monday afternoon, I was invited to a presentation by IOM on a pilot project that they have managed together with the Government for the past year or so. It was a very interesting project linked to the large flows of remittances in this country and on how to improve the recipients’ capacity to make optimal use of these additional incomes. The pilot was very successful and similar projects are now being implemented in other parts of the world. (It is always inspiring to see successful projects!)

 

After the presentation, there was the usual reception which I went to, to catch up with some people (and to grab a bit to eat – they served excellent cheese!). When I was just on my way to go back to the office, my colleagues at IOM invited me to come with the project team on a guided tour with dinner and wine tasting at Milestii Mici – the largest wine cellar in the world. We were a very odd group of people that came on this tour. In addition to my colleague from IOM and a couple of foreign consultants on the project, there were representatives from the Ministry of Economy and Trade, the Central Bank, the deputy CEO from one of the largest banks in Moldova, and me. Apart from being a bit of a strange combination of people, we did not have one single language in common between us. When we, after an interesting drive around the wine cellars, on underground roads with names such as Cabernet and Codru, sat down for dinner the conversation was a bit slow. Polite exchanges were made and some attempts were made to get small conversations going, but without any real results. Then the savour came in the form of two musicians. A violinist and an accordion dressed in Moldovan folk costumes began to play not only Moldovan music, but also Russian, Spanish, Italian and Swedish songs, according to our nationalities. I was very impressed, especially by the violinist and we were all caught up in the music and joined in, in the singing. At every attempt they made to leave, someone in the group talked them in to playing a few more songs until the dinner was over and it was time to go back to Chisinau. So perhaps we did not have so much to talk about, but at least we could enjoy the music together. And in the end, it was a really nice evening!

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More than 50 km of wine cellars in use

 

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Collection wine

On Moldova

Frumoasa Moldova – Beautiful Moldova

 

The last two weeks I have been on a few day trips around the country. This season is lovely: the fields are green and everything is blooming. The first trip was a hike along the river Rǎut to Orhei Vecchi. Whereas I had already been to the monastery in Orhei Vecchi, I had not seen the nature around. The landscape is shaped by the ocean; rocky, harsh and full of fossils. The areas around the river were completely untouched with no or houses in any directions. The only people we saw were a few shepherds with their cattle.

 

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Another trip was to the wetlands outside of Hînceşti. The World Bank is financing an agricultural pollution control project there and we went with two very dedicated men from the unit implementing the project. The wetlands were beautiful and it was inspiring to listen to Mr. J and Mr. G talking about the project about their ideas for future work.

 

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Last Friday, our whole office went on a retreat north of Bǎlţi. We went on a boat tour on the river Prut, which just like Orhei Vechii used to be under sea level and is full of caves and fossils. I think that this area is the most beautiful place I have seen in Moldova. We concluded the day with a bbq in one Moldova’s oldest forest in Padurea Domneasca.

 

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The river Prut

 

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Me, Iaroslav and Iuliana on the boat tour

 

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Our Country Office in one of the caves

 

Finally, just the other day, me and two of my colleagues Iuliana and Viorica were on an errand outside of Chisinau and found this wonderful field of poppies.

 

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Me and Iuliana

 

More photos from these trips will be posted in the albums by the end of the day (my lunch break is over now so got to run..).

My Life

My House 1

 

Earlier this year I decided to move from my euro remont apartment on Blvd Stefan cel Mare to something more Moldovan. (Euro remont is what they call overly designed, newly renovated apartments.) While my apartment was nice and comfortable and had every convenience one could wish for (except for that they turned off the water for a few hours now and then), I never felt really at home in it. Above all, I felt like I could be anywhere in Europe or in the US and not necessarily in Moldova. I did after all come here to learn about this country and to better understand how Moldovans and people in Eastern Europe and the CIS live, but I felt like I would never fully be a part of today’s Moldova in that apartment. So with a little help from Great Valeriu, I found a small house on Str. Veronica Micle, which since my first month in Moldova has been one of my favourite streets in Chisinau. (For those of you who are not familiar with Moldovan literature, Veronica Micle was a poet and the great love of Romani/Moldova’s most famous poet Mihai Eminescu. Symbolically enough Str. Veronica Micle and Str. Mihai Eminescu cross not too far from my house.) On the same opening from the street as my favourite bar, “513”, my house is the first of a small group of houses in a small alley that probably dates back to the beginning of last century. During the Soviet Union, this small neighbourhood was inhabited by Jewish families, but after independence, they all left Moldova and their small houses. It is right next door to Teatrul Luceafărul, which is one of Chisinau’s most famous theatres my little alley seems to be inhabited by some quite arty people. Above all, it is really a small neighbourhood and everyone seems to know each other go over to each other, which suits me perfectly.

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My house

 

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The little alley and my neighbours’ houses

 

Unfortunately, the photos do not show the wonderful scent from the plants that are blossoming in the alley right now.