Kids

I think I wrote in an earlier post that kids are always the same regardless of where you are in the world. Regardless of if they have a carefree childhood or if they have to grow up too quickly, they love attention and especially from adults. Once in Antigua, Guatemala, this little six or seven-year old boy came up to me and wanted me to buy jewelry that he was selling. I said I wasn’t interested but instead of walking over to the next person in the park, he sat down next to me on the bench where I was sitting and so I started asking him a little about himself. And he just talked and talked and talked about this and that; telling me his big and small ideas for over twenty minutes before he remembered that he was supposed to work and slid down from the bench, said good bye and took his box with jewelry and moved on.

At the same time kids seem to live in a world of their own. There is always something going on in their heads that they often seem to want communicate. Now that I started carrying my camera with me, I especially see it in the pictures I’ve taken in Malawi. It’s also funny because few people in Malawi have phones with cameras and many don’t even have phones at all, but every kid that I’ve met there, even in the most remote villages, have learned that phones mean taking a photo and that they get to see themselves on the screen. So they are always eager to get in front of the camera every time I pull out my phone. Here are a few of the kids that eagerly goofed around in front of the lens on my last trip:

children malawi

children malawi

children malawi

children malawi

My First Visit to South Africa

The Agricultural Risk Management Conference was in Johannesburg, which meant that I got to visit South Africa for the first time. Admittedly, I didn’t have a chance to see a lot as I was there for work, but the parts that I saw, I really liked. People, food, and the climate make Johannesburg a very pleasant place and from what I’ve heard, the rest of the country is similar or better! Because of the conference, we stayed out in Sandton, which is a very glossy part of Johannesburg and perhaps not the most representative for the city, but a colleague and I snuck out for a few hours during the weekend and took a guided tour around central Johannesburg and visited the Apartheid Museum. It is difficult to describe the feeling of walking around the museum; it is somehow so unreal to think about how people were doomed just because of their skin color through a system that society supported up until some 25 years ago. And how any attempts to change the system, whether through protest, attempts to be neighbors, or even through love across race was met with violent resistance. On the other hand, this isn’t very different from how some countries have their systems today, though instead of skin color, it depends on the sex a person is born into. As for Johannesburg, I hope to go back sometime and to also have a chance to see more of South Africa! Here are some pics (though not so many unfortunately, as I spent most of my time there in conference rooms…):

Johannesburg Skyline

Johannesburg Bridge

ANC Headquarters

Johannesburg Street

Johannesburg Mining District

Nelson Mandela Hope

We went on this hop-on-hop-off tour and I can actually recommend it because it was the best one I’ve been on for a while. At least for people like me who actually are interested in learning something substantive about history and architecture, and not just nonsense anecdotes and about all the movie stars that have visited.

Lake Malawi

When I’ve traveled throughout Malawi, there are three things that seem to be present wherever I go: one is God, one is the sense that without maize there is no life, and on is Lake Malawi. As the third largest and second deepest lake in Africa, Lake Malawi is one of Africa’s Great Lakes and it is somehow present everywhere in Malawi through art and food. One of Malawi’s signature dishes is Chambo, a fish that is caught in Lake Malawi and offered almost everywhere in the country (it’s delicious by the way!). And the lake is depicted on crafts from paintings to wood carvings and ceramics. When standing on the shore on the Malawi side of the lake, it is not possible to see Mozambique across. However, the lake has always been a mean for exchanges, which means that today the majority of Malawi’s Muslim population lives around the lake. My Malawian colleague thought it was because when the Middle Eastern slave traders came from the East, they crossed Lake Malawi on their way further into Africa, a despite their reason for being there, their religious believes inspired people on the way. Today, Lake Malawi is a tourist destination for both Malawians and foreigners and was one of the reasons why CNN named Malawi Africa’s next go-to destination. Lake Malawi is a lovely and peaceful place, unlike anywhere else I’ve been and I can definitely recommend a visit!

Lake Malawi

Lake Malawi Fishing

Fishermen Lake Malawi

Feet in Lake Malawi

Beach Lake Malawi

All photos are from the Salima district in Central Malawi.

Under A Kachere Tree…

I’ve spent many hours under trees like this past week in Malawi. A Kachere Tree symbolizes unity of the village and the community meets in the shade under its branches to discuss issues in the village and to settle disputes. As for me, I listened to what farmers saw as their greatest challenges to adopting improved agricultural technologies and practices, and although there were few disagreements between the discussants, it was definitely very interesting!

kachere tree malawi

Another Visist to Malawi

As I indicated in my past posts, I’m in Malawi again and just as last time I was here back in March, I’m here for work. The last time I was here, the team I led got to do most of the traveling, while I stayed in Lilongwe and in the Central Region. This time, I traveled a lot more and went around South and Central Malawi together with two colleagues for about a week. We saw a lot of villages in the different districts and stayed over night in Blantyre (Malawi’s largest city and commercial center), Zomba, and Salima on Lake Malawi. Although I enjoy working in Lilongwe, it was great getting to see more of the country and also to talk to more farmers – one of the most interesting parts of my work. Here are a few pics:

River Malawi

Boats Malawi

Everyday Life Malawi

Children Lake Malawi

Rice Field Malawi

Sunset Malawi

 

 

Another Airport

I realized I’ve written a lot on airports lately. Here is from a somewhat smaller one than that of Frankfurt: at Blantyre Airport while waiting for passengers and luggage to be offloaded on my way from Johannesburg to Lilongwe the other day. I prefer smaller airports to bigger, mainly because they are faster and there is less logistics involved. Best of all is when they allow you to walk to and from the plane on foot, and you don’t have to take a little bus.

Blantyre Airport

Since I’ve mainly travelled in Europe before, I wasn’t so used to it, but it’s really common for flights in Sub-Saharan Africa to do routes between three cities, rather than just connecting two, which means stops on the way if you’re not luck enough to get off on the first stop. 

A Day In Frankfurt

After probably having connected over 30 times at the Frankfurt Airport, I finally got a chance to see the city yesterday. The cheapest possible connection to Malawi, where I am traveling for work, is via Frankfurt but it includes a 14-hour stopover. In fact, last time I went to Malawi, this route wasn’t even recommended because of the stop, and I instead flew Ethiopian Airlines, via Addis Ababa. But my more seasoned Africa traveling colleagues told me about the flight and I saw it as a great opportunity of saving both money and seeing a new city.

I have to admit that I was positively surprised by Frankfurt. I don’t know why but I had pictured it less cozy and more impersonal, but the city was very nice and with lots of pedestrian areas and outdoor spaces for socializing. And Rönnderberg looked like something out of Grimm’s Fairy Tales. Just as when I was in Amsterdam, I mainly wandered around aimlessly, following Miss Lavish advice on letting go of the Baedeker, although in direction of the Old Town. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t the best, so I only walked around for a few hours, but I saw Römerberg, the Old St. Nicholas Church, the Zeil, and found a food market at Konstablerwache where I had traditional German lunch. Getting from the airport to the city center was really easy, the commuter train took only about 15 minutes, and so I will definitely do this again next time I have a longer stopover in Frankfurt.

Frankfurt foodstand

Rönnerberg Frankfurt Square

Frankfurt Rönnerberg

Frankfurt Rönnerberg

Market Frankfurt

German Apples

Bratwurst

Delicious bratwurst and apple saft for lunch.  What I really liked about the food market was that there were no disposable plates or cups, and even though it was quite cold, there was plenty of tables for people to sit down to enjoy their lunch, beer, or cider – very different from the food culture here in DC. I definitely recommend a stop there to anyone who visits Frankfurt. 

Airport Lounges

I spend way too much time at airports and a substantial part of that in lounges. Having travelled so much that I am now in possession of a Star Alliance Gold Card, I have access to the so called Senators Lounges. In my experience, they are essentially the same as the Business Lounges but I guess it’s a way of making their regulars feel special and possibly give the others something to strive for through a nonsense differentiation. I can also add that there are about 80 percent men in the Senators’ Lounges compared while more or less gender parity in the Business Lounges. (At Arlanda Airport, the SAS gold level lounge actually has two restrooms for men and only one for women!) Anyway, the fun part about these lounges is that I quite frequently run into people I know. Just now, I ran into two colleagues here in the lounge in Frankfurt who were going in the opposite direction. It was nice to have a chat and to catch up before they headed back to DC but it makes the world seem rather small!

Frankfurt Airport Lounge I got this cute little special edition Moleskin note book on my flight over. Perfect for travel notes!