Stop No 2: Lilongwe

My next trip was to Malawi. It’s one of my favorite countries but this time, I was just there to present our findings from our agriculture risk management work, so I just stayed in Lilongwe. But it was nice to see my colleagues and I had some good discussions with different institutions and organizations. Other than my presentations, I had a lot of work to finish by end-May so it was one of those weeks when my work day stretched from eight in the morning to past midnight. But I managed to pick up my favorite tea (Chombe) and have nsima (a maize dish like mamaliga, or like polenta but less watery, but made of white maize) before I got on the flight over to Central Asia.

Malawi landscape view

Malawi house in field

Malawi bike

Sobo Soda Malawi

Sobo soda – a favorite among Malawians! I think it’s grape but not sure… But lots of sugar!

Stop No 1: Johannesburg

I may have written about this earlier but my business trips are normally quite far from the general perception of business travels. Yes, I do stay in comfy hotels when in capitals – never the in fanciest ones but at least in those where internet is supposed to work. (It often doesn’t, of course!) But my business travels often also include trips into the rural areas with overnight stays at small guesthouses that normally attend to local tourists or backpackers, and most importantly, these trips include meetings with farmers, researchers at branch institutes, and public servants in local offices. In addition, my trips often mean spending hours and hours with colleagues from the country I’m in, a driver, and/or an interpreter, which in turn means ample of time for conversation. So I normally go a lot more “off the beaten track” and talk a lot more with locals when I travel for work than when I am on vacation. Which I think is the opposite of what many people picture when they hear the term business travels. But this time in Johannesburg, my trips was really the typical business trip. I didn’t stay at an airport hotel, but not far from it: at the Radisson Blu Gautrain, which is located just across from the Sandton train station where the airport train stops. And I barely got out of the hotel in the six days that I was there.

I came with a team to hold a training for African policy practitioners on how to conduct agricultural risk assessments (more info here). We had a great group of participants (many of them in countries where we work) and I delivered the training together with my closest colleagues, which was nice for a change as we normally lead our own tasks and work with specialized consultants. So I enjoyed this work tremendously! And the last evening, before the rest of my team headed back to Washington and I on to Malawi, we had dinner at The Butcher Shop and Grill, where I had the best meat ever (aged steak!) So just like last time, my stay in Johannesburg was great – it’s such a pleasant place and people are so nice – and I hope I will get to go back in not too long and also at some point see more of South Africa! 

Nelson Mandela Square Sandton

Johannesburg

Gautrain Hotel Breakfast Waffles

Fruit sticks

Half-sized doughnuts

liquorice

I have to say something more about the food in this post, because it wasn’t just the meat at the restaurant that last evening that was good; I actually don’t think I’ve ever been other than excited about the food I’ve had in Johannesburg. The cuisine reflects South Africa’s mixed culture and everything is freshly made and with good quality ingredients. Portions are in nice (read healthy) sizes, and even at our training event, the snacks in the breaks included lots of fruits, small sandwiches, etc (see pics). Even bar food and café food have been very good, and the breakfasts have been divine at the two hotels where I’ve stayed! And in addition to this fantastic cuisine, there is of course the local wine that goes with! So just the culinary experience makes Johannesburg worth a visit! 

Celebrating Spring in Stockholm

After my trip to stunning Scotland and the breathtaking Hebrides in early April (one of my most memorable trips ever), work started picking up. Several trips were coming up with preparation and presentations to go with. Little before my upcoming birthday in late April, I all of a sudden got extremely homesick and decided to go to Stockholm for a week. Fortunately, I could work from home, otherwise I wouldn’t have been able to go with everything that was going on. But this worked out perfectly and I celebrated my birthday with my childhood friend Jonas, and also got to celebrate Valborgsmässoafton five days later – one of my favorite holidays at which we celebrate springtime with communal bonfires and traditional songs. A lovely week with lots of work but also plenty of time to catch up with friends in the evenings!

Valborgseld

Bellman Statue

Ulla Winbladh Restaurant

Hasselbacken Restaurant Stockholm

Hasselbacken Restaurant Stockholm

Hammarby Sjöstad Stockholm

For my birthday, Jonas and I had a drink at restaurant Ulla Winbladh and then dinner at Hasselbacken, both on the island Djurgården in central Stockholm. And I had my favorite dessert – crème brulée! And outside the restaurant sat on of my favorite composer, Swedish 18th century songwriter Carl Michael Bellman

Although it’s my hometown, I think I’m not alone in ranking Stockholm as one of the top travel destinations for a city weekend. Restaurants, cafes, and bars are frankly better than most places, and there is an immense diversity depending on what you’re up for. There is plenty of history, art, and culture (classic and contemporary), and the city itself is incredibly beautiful, situated perfectly on some 10 islands and fairly equally divided between water, parks, and neighborhoods. So I can truly recommend a visit, and also to see some of the areas outside the inner city borders. Like Hammarby Sjöstad above.

Catching Up While On Holiday in Grenada

Apologies for the long absentee from my blog! It started with work piling up in April-May, and then me managing to lock myself out from the site. Nevertheless, this has been a quite interesting period, or at least in terms of travels, so I will try to give a recap over the past three months. As for right now, I’m on Morne Rouge Beach in Grenada – amazingly beautiful and relaxing! And today Grenada celebrates Emancipation Day with a public holiday, so people have come down to the beach with food and drinks and music. there are lots of people here with food and drinks, so the atmosphere is perfect! Here are a few pics, with more to come after my April-July recap!

Morne Rouge Beach Grenada

Our Visit to Scotland in Summary

Except for our dinner Sunday night, there wasn’t a moment on this trip to Scotland that wasn’t perfect. What struck us the most was how easy it was to get around, even when our plans had to be altered because of the weather. But considering how far our Jura is and how many connections we had on the way there and back, it’s incredible that we barely had to wait more than 10 minutes anywhere. What I can recommend is to plan properly though. Many of the ferries and buses only run a few times per day, so it’s important that make sure they have connections to the next part of the journey. My other recommendation would be to have a little extra budget for taxi rides. We ended up having to take taxis three times because there were no buses, with the rides being £14 Talbet-Kennacraig, £30 Feolin-Craighouse on Jura, and £25 from the ferry at Tayvallach to the Glasgow bus on Lochgilphead Lochnell Street since the buses didn’t run on weekends. Buses and ferries were quite cheap, ranging from £5-20 depending on the distance. The hotels in Tarbert and on Jura were about £100 per nights including breakfast, but we also met some campers so budget traveling with a tent is definitely possible. Regardless, I can definitely recommend a visit to Scotland and the Hebrides – it was one of the most stunning and at the same time most peaceful places I have ever been to!   From a stop with the bus on the way back to Glasgow 

Two and a Half Day in Edinburgh

I am now on my way back to Washington after two and a half day in Edinburgh. Or barely two and a half day. Although the way back from Jura went super smoothly, we didn’t arrive in Edinburgh until Saturday afternoon. So after cleaning up a bit (we got a deal at the Sheraton through some site, so the room was very comfy), we went for a walk around the new town and sat down for dinner at an outdoor terrace of a pub on Rose Street. The weather had cleared up compared to previous days and it finally felt like spring was in the air. (Some of the trees in Princes Street Gardens actually started blossoming while we were there.) 

The next day, we did what I normally do when I have little time in a city, namely took a sightseeing bus around town and picked one must-see attraction. The hotel concierge recommended Edinburgh tours (green buses) because they have live guides instead of audio guides, and although I don’t have anything to compare with in Edinburgh, it’s definitely the best guided tour I have had in years. As for the must-see attraction, we decided to visit Edinburgh Castle, where we also got a guided tour. After a late lunch on the Grassmarket, we decided to split up for a while and I headed down the Royal Mile to the Queen’s Palace, where, more interestingly, Mary Queen of Scots had spent her short reign, but I ended up not going inside as the tour included so much more than just her apartments. (Admittedly, my history intake quote was kind of filled for the day.) Instead, I ended up walking around the city and picked up a Scottish wool shawl. Our dinner that night was our only disappointing meal and ambiance during the entire trip, but we compensated it this morning by having breakfast at the Red Squirrel close to our hotel. Fantastically cosy environment, friendly and welcoming staff, and great food. A perfect ending of a perfect trip!    

               

   

The cemetary is where Adam Smith is buried – couldn’t pass by without going in. The restaurant pics are from The Red Squirrel. 

Jura Hotel: Probably The Most Charming Place I’ve Ever Stayed In

I have to say that I LOVED Jura Hotel, where we stayed these past three nights. Everyone working there were so nice and helpful, and the hotel had island charm but was comfortable and felt quite newly renovated. We had all our breakfasts and dinners there, and sat reading with a coffee or a drink in the pub several afternoons before dinner. The rooms had small kettles with tea and hot cocoa, and Scottish shortbread, which was perfect for reading time as there were no TVs in the rooms. It also seemed like all the rooms were individually furnished. I can really recommend a stay there dor anyone who visits the Scottish Hebrides!  Jura Hotel Scotland  

Jura Hotel Scotland         

From the top: 1) Jura Hotel 2) the view from our window 3) tea and Scottish shortbread kit in our room 4) hotel library 5) breakfast and dining room 6) our breakfast table

Bye Bye Jura! 

Earlier this morning, we took the Jura passenger ferry back to the mainland. Alex told us that they ran it since seven years with the Island Trust that they had set up some years back to support local services, but he thought that this year might be the last for the direct ferry. (The other one we took runs from Feolin on the southern end of Jura, via Port Askaig to Kennacraig, while this goes directly from Jura’s main village Craighouse to Tayvallach on the mainland) Nicol was the captain and he also gave us a bit of a guided tour during the 40-minute journey, and among other things we saw the remains of Castle Sween, one of the oldest stone castles in Scotland (from the 1100s). He also gave me a postcard and helped us call a taxi to pick us up in Tavallich and take us to the Glasgow bus at Lochgilphead Lochnell Street about 20 minutes way Immensely helpful!  

I was actually really sad to leave Jura – we had such tranquil time there.everything just felt silent and peaceful and pure in some way. I can’t see now when I would go back, but I do hope I do get to see Jura again some day! 

Paps Jura Scotland  

Skerries Jura Scotland  Jura Scotland 

The Antlers: Our Favorite Lunch Place on Jura 

When we came back from our hike yesterday, it was past the lunch hour at our hotel and the restaurant wouldn’t open again until two hours later. Instead we went to The Antlers lunch cafe and souvenir store across the road, (where I had bought an island-made wool hat earlier as I had forgotten to bring a hat) and the lunch there was so good that we ended up going back today too for lunch, and coffee and Easter-decorated Victoria cake after.  Antlers Jura  

Antlers Jura   Antlers Jura And reviews on Tripadvisor here.

A Guided Tour Around the Jura Distillery and One Around the Island

We somehow didn’t manage to book our guided tours until our last day, so we did both the Jura Whisky Distillery tour this morning, and then “Alex the bus” drove us around the island and told us about its history, nature, and everyday life. I personally found Alex tour more interesting than that of the distillery, but I’m not really a whisky drinker. Alex stories about the life on Jura were fascinating – it wasn’t an easy life for the inhabitants, and the landlords, the Campbell family, didn’t exactly make it easier. (But with a curse thrown at them, justice was allegedly served in the end.) Many people also left for the U.S. In the 1800s, some of them with a resettlement grant from the British Government. Today, life is different of course. While Alex told us that when his wife grew up there, people shopped clothes and other things when the traveling salesman came by, and then the day after everyone were wearing the same clothes, today with internet, everything can be ordered and reach the island within a few days. It takes maybe 5 hours to get to Glasgow by ferry and bus, but there are also flights there from the mainland so people can go for a day if needed. So in a way, it’s possible to have all conveniences. But finding work still seems to be a challenge, and also keeping many of the necessary services alive such as certain ferry routes, food services, and a little convenience store. Jura attracts about 20,000 visitors a year, but the permanent population is no more than 200 people and it’s difficult to get permits to build on the island as there are a lot of restrictions in place to protect the landscape. A challenge to find a balance as the population also needs a sustainable size to keep the island inhabited. Three fascinating and informative hours on the as you can see! I recommend anyone who visits the island to give Alex a call and book a tour Jura Distillery  Jura Distillery  Jura Distillery

     

 The tour ended with a visit to the little church where they had a fantastic photo exhibition of the life and the people of Jura from the late 1800s and onwards.