Weekend in New York

I am back in Washington after a lovely weekend in New York. Though DC is a very pleasant city, it always feels a little slow coming back. New York is really unique and I the more I spend time there and the more I get to know the different neighborhoods, the more I love the city. Jenny, who I know from Rome, just moved here after two years in Teheran and so I stayed at her place one night and two nights at Elisa and Julien’s. Due to heavy rain Thursday evening, my bus up was delayed, but Jenny and I still found some time to catch up over dinner in the evening when I finally arrived. She lives in East Village so the neighborhood is full of restaurants. Friday, Elisa and Julien invited me to join them and two of their friends to have lunch at the Gramercy Tavern, a restaurant with a star in the Micheline Guide. The food was wonderful and we spent almost three hours there, enjoying a three course lunch. (Since it was the lunch menu, it wasn’t particularly expensive, and I can really recommend trying more reputable restaurants in that way.)

The rest of the weekend was quiet and relaxing, with nice dinners at E&J’s, brunches out, a stroll in Central Park, a visit to the Metropolitan Museum (I spent eight hours there the first time I was in NY seven years ago, but have barely been back since), and a bit of shopping. I also managed to meet up with a girl who is doing the same distance MSc as me and who also lives up in NY. It was great! We spent over two hours talking about food policy and food systems – some of my favorite topics! So I really had a lovely weekend in NY and I hope to go up soon again!

Jenny is part Sami and so I got to sleep under a beautiful Sami blanket.

Hanging out with Jenny in East Village

The Metropolitan Museum

A beautiful day in Central Park

A Little Jealous…

I just got a text from A who went up to New York for a few days. I have to say that I am a little jealous. I have been meaning to go up there for months but have had to postpone the trip for different reasons. And now, I am stuck with an assignment for my Food Policy MSc, which is due on Monday. I’m writing about private standards in the agri-food industry, so it is very interesting, but I have to admit that I would rather be strolling on 5th Avenue or in Central Park. But after I have submitted my assignment and caught up on things here, I plan to go up for an extended weekend to visit Elisa, and J who just moved there.  I can’t wait! New York is really one of my favorite cities!

Me and pretty (and super tanned) Julia in Central Park last summer

The Rest of the Week in Montenegro

The rest of the week in Montenegro was very busy with a lot of late night work, but everything went well and I felt like a lot had been accomplished by the time we left. Our last evening, we went out for dinner (at restaurant Marshal Tito!) and had meat and seafood traditionally cooked on a stone Basically, the idea is to heat up a stone in an owen, sprinkle a bit of salt on the stone, and then place meat or seafood on it and let it cook. It is delicious!

Well cooked after a couple of minutes!

Podgorica from my hotel room

Visit to Montenegro’s Former Capital, Cetinje

Sunday, we took half a day off and went to Cetinje. Cetinje is located about 30 minutes from Podgorica and was the capital of Montenegro from 1878 to around 1920, when Montenegro was a principality and later a kingdom, before it got incorporated into former Yugoslavia. It remained Montenegro’s administrational center until the parliament moved to what is now Podgorica (then Titograd) in 1946. It is a very pretty town and peaceful that now only has about 15,000 inhabitants but with a number of buildings that truly fit a capital. When I go to the newly independent states (but also here in the U.S.), I often think about the different ways that the countries are drawing from history and mythology to create national symbols and a unique identity. In the case of Cetinje, the symbols were instead foreign flags hanging outside some of the town’s most grandiose buildings, in an attempt to show where the former embassies had been; the embassies in themselves being a proof that this once was the capital of Montenegro.

Below are one of the main streets in the town center, Cetinje’s theater, the former Russian embassy with the flag still hanging outside, the former Palace, and Cetinje’s famous monastery. Beautiful park areas contributed to the peacefulness of the town. The grandiose buildings in combination with the small population almost gave the feeling of being in a place that had fallen asleep, but maybe it was because we were there on a Sunday. The day ended at a small vinoteca where we had a lovely meal with a number of traditional dishes.

Bucharest

My last day here in Bucharest. It has been two very nice but quite intensive weeks. I think that four weeks travel for work is more than enough. Since we are involved in so many things, work-trips means full days on the assignment in the country and then trying to catch up on everything else in the evenings and the weekends. It gets especially hectic when travelling to several countries as there is normally a bit of follow-up work after a country visit, which means bringing that to the next country on top of everything else. On the other hand, it is out in the countries that we work with that things are most exciting and where it feels like the work really moves forward. So I wouldn’t want to do without this either.

My stay in Bucharest has been very nice and interesting. Fortunately, I had a bit of time to stroll around in the city a bit over the weekend. It is extremely beautiful in certain places and less so in others. Martin, the constant source of brilliant observations, described the city as a post-nuclear Paris and it is actually a quite accurate description. Due to French cultural influence in the 19:th century, there are many reminders of Paris here, including a Triumph Arch (which of course is a Roman invention, but this one is in one of the main roundabouts just like in Paris), the typical Parisian street signs, names of streets and squares, building architecture, and many other things. Many of the newly renovated cafes and bars are also inspired by the art deco period. But then you also have the remains from the communist period, with horrendous buildings that seems to be out of Orwell’s 1984. I can’t really find a better way to describe it than that it quite cool! And it is not very EU yet, so do go and visit before EU standards and the mandatory chains have taken over here too. It is already well under way!

The view from my hotel window on Calea Victoriei, on of the main streets in Bucharest

Bucharest Old Town

Cafe Les Bourgeoise in the Old Town

The Odeon Theater, which I suspect got its name from the Parisian theater

A street named after the French intellectual Edgar Quinet (who has also a boulevard and a metro stop in Paris named after him), with the traditional Parisian street sign.

Travelling in Europe

Sorry for the poor update – there has really been too much lately! But now I finally have a bit of time… As I wrote earlier, my trip to Europe started with a 10 day stop in Moldova. It was great as always. I managed to see several friends (though not all – sorry for that Natalia and Gehandie!) and attend a couple of nice dinners. The Swedish evening that I mentioned was very nice; there really are many more Swedes in town now than when I lived in Chisinau. The best was that everyone seemed to enjoy life there almost as much as much as I did. I also had time to go and see a ballet (Coppelia) at the opera. I love going to the opera or classical concerts in Chisinau because it is very unpretentious. It is super cheap (a few dollars for a ticket) so everyone can afford it. People come in jeans and there are always a lot of kids there. Of course, some see it as going for a coffee with friends, so you might get people behind you that sit and chat through the performance. And in the winters, it used to be really cold. I once heard a story about how the dancers one winter performed a ballet in 2 ⁰C. So I brought my jacked to my seat out of habit, but it was actually warm this time. I hope that is a sign that times are getting better. My only disappointment was that my favorite chocolate that I normally stock up on – 72% cacao from the Ukrainian brand Korona – had disappeared from the shelves in the supermarkets and replaced by Western brands.  Well, I guess life has to go on also in Moldova.

Outside the Chisinau Opera with Liliana, Vadinm, Dina, and Doina (and their friend on the phone)

While in Moldova, it was Mărţişsor, which is one of my favorite traditions. It is a festivity that celebrates spring. It is an old Dacian tradition (at least in Moldova and Romania; now that I browse around a bit, there seem to be a debate between it is of Dacian or of Roman tradition) and it dates back a few thousand years. Basically, it symbolizes the break between winter and spring, and is a celebration of nature coming to life, fertility, and love, etc. In Moldova, small pins in red and white are made and sold in the streets, and everyone gives everyone a pin that you then wear for a month. Or rather, you wear all the pins you get for a month. It is a lovely tradition! 

 

People selling and buying Martisor pins on Blvd. Stefan cel Mare in Chisinau

My Martisor-pins

When I was done with my work in Moldova, I had a few days off before my work in Romania started so I went to Stockholm for the weekend. Though I was there not too long ago, it was so incredibly nice to see everyone. And coincidentally, my uncle Knutte had arranged a family gathering Friday evening at Restaurant Cassi in central Stockholm, so I got to see all my aunts and uncles, and several of my cousins and their kids. It was fun as always. According to tradition, mom, Jessica, and I also went on the annual book sale, this year accompanied by Linnea. (And no, I actually didn’t really get anything!) And I had time to see my dad, stepmom and several friends, so it was really a good weekend!

My family, or part of it anyway

Me and Jessica (I look at bit off because I was wearing glasses that day and took them off for the photo, so I couldn’t really see the camrea:-))

I am now in Bucharest for since about a week. Apparently, I am starting to become a bit of an institution at the hotel: The girl that takes the room numbers in the breakfast room in the morning just smiled and said “I know!” this morning when I told her what room I was in. And one of the waiters asked if I wanted coffee as usual, and made a remark about me still being there. So I think it is time to go back to DC soon….

Vegas Baby!

I am just back from a few days with Martin in Las Vegas. My friend Patrick called me when I was there, and after talking for a few minutes, he asked hesitantly: “You’re not eloping, are you?” And no, we weren’t. We were there for a wedding though, as the sister of Martin’s childhood friend got married. It was a small but very nice wedding, with the wedding couple’s immediate family and a few friends. Or as small as it gets when the bride and the groom are Irish. Anyway, we had 3 lovely days during which we ate well and saw most of the casinos, while not gambling a single penny. (For some reason, neither of us were at all tempted and though I thought I’d spend a few coins on the machines at least, there was so much to do that I kind of forgot about it.) I had actually already been to Las Vegas, almost exactly 15 years ago, but whereas I then thought it tacky and didn’t see the charm with it at all, I found it kind of fascinating this time. First of all, the Strip is just so immensely bizarre, with copies of famous monuments from all over the world. Who comes up with the idea of making replicas of pyramids, sphinxes, Parisian buildings, and an entire block in Venice?? The crowd there also seems to be much more representative of the U.S. population than those that live and work in DC, so I spent a lot of time just people watching. I guess the audience has changed a bit too over the past years because it seemed to be mainly families with children and retirees there. Some of the shows have not really kept up with this fact, and one of our most surreal experiences were our first evening when we were in an audience full of excited children in front of a pirate ship outside the Treasure Island Hotel, and the ship fills up with 15 half naked female dancers that try to seduce a male pirate.

While in Vegas, we also managed to see the exhibition Bodies, hich has been on tour here in the U.S. for a while. It explains the functions of the body by displaying body parts from what I think was Chinese prisoners, sometimes as upstanding bodies. It was very interesting and I learned quite a bit (surprisingly enough after having watched ER for about ten seasons), but after having seen 100s of body parts from dead persons, I have to admit that I felt a bit uncomfortable and nauseous.

 Las Vegas 100 Las Vegas 110

Paris and New York, Las Vegas

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Ancient Rome and Fontana di Trevi, Las Vegas

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Venice, Las Vegas

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The pirate ship outside the Treasure Island Hotel (before the dancing started)

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Dolphin and white baby tiger at the Mirage Zoo

 

On Work in Bucharest

I am in Bucharest now since about a week on a very interesting mission for two agricultural projects. This is the first time that I work on these projects, and so it has been quite an intensive week for me (though I am learning a lot, especially about the EU CAP). I also had a lot of work right before leaving, which is why I have not updated my blog in a while. 

But it is nice to be back in the region! When I am not working, I enjoy practicing my Romanian and eating familiar food. I have not had a chance to really walk around in Bucharest though, because I have had too much writing to do when I am not in meetings. Tomorrow, we are going to visit an institute and a few projects around Brasov up in Transylvania so I hope to take some picutures then a write a little more then.

I am running to a meeting now with some incoming team members now – I hope I will have a chance to write something soon again (and I promise to make an effort to be a little more interesting…)

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Montenegro

For my last week of work, I stayed in Podgorica, Montenegro, where I have worked on a project that will both start preparing various ag-institutions for a potential EU-accession, and provide financial support for small-scale rural investments. The project is just about to start and I am really looking forward to the implementation of it! Much of our work this week focused on help getting everything started and to clarify together with all parties involved what would be the first steps. The Ministry of Agriculture had also arranged a session for media and stakeholders to present the project and to get feedback on the activities that are foreseen under it. For this project, Mr. M (or Martin as his real name is – it is probably time to introduce him properly) also joined the team, which I of course was really happy about! And Montenegro is really one of my favorite countries right now, so I had a very nice week even though I did not go out of Podgorica this time. Even Midsummer Eve ended up being very nice, even though I had calamari for dinner instead of salmon and herring. Again, if you have the chance, do visit Montenegro – it is really a beautiful country!

Not as light as Midsummer Eve in Sweden, but at least we had better weather!

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