After a lovely two-hour ferry ride (so nice to be out on open water!), we drove down to the little coastal town of Beaufort. We had no idea where to stay so we just drove down to the historic quarters and asked for a room at the first inn that we saw. It was a beautiful colonial house from the 1760s. We got a small suite in the attic called the Captain’s Quarters (perfect!), and I slept so well. Apparently, Cedar’s Inn is famous for its restaurant but we ended up going down to a place in the harbor just to look around a bit. The morning after, we took a stroll around town and it was incredibly charming. Small Southern-style houses with the double verandas. Several of the locals also recommended us to stop by Southport on the way down to Savannah, and the guy at the inn even recommended a place to eat: The Provision Company. So we did as they said and had a very nice lunch in a charming little town that we otherwise never would have found. I can really recommend both Beaufort and Southport for anyone who is in the area, and definitely a night at Cedar’s Inn!
Author Archives: Åsa Giertz
On the Road!
Tuesday morning last week, Jonas and I finally left DC on our long-planned road trip through the Southern states. We started talking about this trip shortly after we got back from last year’s road trip, which went through Arizona, Nevada, and California, and passed amazing places like the Grand Canyon, the Black Canyon, and Death Valley. But the truth is that seeing the American South has been a dream of mine ever since I read the adventures of Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, and later when I saw films about the American Civil War. And our plan is to see it all: Charleston, Savannah, the steam boats on the Mississippi River, plantations, abandoned ghost towns, swamps and reptiles, and finally the French Quarters in New Orleans.
At the time of writing this post, we were waiting for a ferry on Ocracoke Island in North Carolina. Another ferry had brought us there a few hours ago from North Carolina’s beautiful Outer Banks, where we stayed for one night, in Kill Devil Hills! I can recommend both the Outer Banks, and the Otracoke Island even more, for anyone who wants a beac vacation. Virginia Beach, which was our first stop on Tuesday, is a pale comparison. The exception being the restaurant where we had dinner, Tautogs Restaurant. Charming, authentic, and with fantastic seafood (I had oyster as first course and scallops and pilaf for main course) and nice people working there, I wish it was a located a little closer to DC because I would definitely be a regular!
Food in History Conference in London
I am just back after a short stop in London. As I wrote some posts ago, I was going to the Food in History Conference organized at the University of London by the Anglo-American Conference of Historians. It was three really interesting days during which I attended sessions on diverse topics such as food and archeology, food in the Bible, food trends in modern history, the history of the ginger bread, the poor man’s food, and the invention of the fridge and of the modern cold chain. As last time I was in London, I stayed with lovely E and J, and although the conference absorbed most of the days, I did have time for lunch and a tour of the Kensington Palace my first day, and then a quick stop by Fortnum & Mason on Friday. I had never been to the latter but wanted to see it after I had heard their archivist talking about the history of the store in a conference session. Although touristy today, some of these department stores (and indeed convenience stores) really changed the supply chains, global trade, and the way we consume. And it was of course lovely to spend four days with E and J and their kids, so in short, I had four terrific days in the UK capital!
From the top: Kensington Palace and the chairs for each of Queen Anne’s 18 children who died before birth or within the first years. The exception was Prince William who lived until he was 11. The Hammersmith bridge and Fortnum & Mason’s wonderful tea and coffee department. And finally, the Food in History Conference at University of London.
Summer Season is Food Season
Summer is definitely my favorite season. I don’t think there is a single thing about summer that I don’t like, not even when it’s around 30 degrees and greenhouse humid in DC, as it’s been these past days. (At least it’s warm, and the sun is out now in between the thunder storms!) A really great thing with summer is of course all the good fruits and vegetables that are available (and not shipped from greenhouses across half the world). I just rediscovered alfalfa sprouts. We used to grow them in the kitchen when I was little, and they are delicious with cream cheese on crisp bread! And then yogurt with strawberries to make the perfect breakfast. I love summer!
Great Food Marketing: Bananas to Go
In most places in the world today, what we eat depends more on marketing than on nutritional content. This means that our diets contain a lot of suboptimal edibles, but it also means that we could change current trends of obesity and diet related diseases, wastefulness, and large environmental foodprints with the right marketing. I thought this was quite innovative in this regard!
Summer?
It’s warm outide but I’m not sure what happened to the sun? The rain and thunderstorms have been hanging over DC since I got back, and will continue to do so for the better part of next week according to the weather forecast. Since I’m still working for a few more days, it’s alright. Today I’m off, though, and I’m going to Union Market with Swedish Monika. Hope you all have a nice weekend too, sun or no sun!
Montenegro: A Jewel by the Adriatic Sea
I am back in DC now after little over a week in Montenegro. Admittedly, Montenegro is one of my favorite countries (one of 10 of the about 45 countries that I’ve been to, but nevertheless a favorite!) The landscape is so beautiful, ranging from the rocky cliffs and turquoise water at the Adriatic coast in the south, to the steep, seemingly black mountains and pasture slopes in the north, and with interesting cultural sites like hidden monasteries, the old capital Cetinje, and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Venetian town of Kotor (there are photos from all these places in my blog archives). I am very lucky to have had the opportunity to work there. I also work with a very good team, so I always look forward to going back. And not to forget: the food is fantastic! Locally produced fruits and vegetables, meats and seafood, and delicious cheeses. The dishes are something of a blend between typical Balkan food and Italian dishes, with lamb, dolma/sarmale, prosciutto, cheeses, pasta, and polenta. As I wrote earlier, my favorite dish is seafood risotto and I have to admit that I tried it at several different places this time, from black to saffron risottos. And as all countries in the region, Montenegro has a proud history of wine production, with Vranac and Krstač being domestic grapes. I would recommend Montenegro to anyone who wishes to visit Southern Europe for vacation!
My favorite: Saffron risotto at Hotel Podgorica. The black risotto is colored by octopus ink.
Glad Midsommar!
The Millennium Bridge at Night
After an evening stroll (everyone in Podgorica seems to be out tonight!) and a gelato, here is a picture of Podgorica’s Millennium Bridge at night. What the picture doesn’t show is all the frogs that were sounds in the Moraca River under the bridge. I was really tired before the dinner, but the ice cream seems to have done the trick! Sugar kicks… The nutritionist in me knows that they should be avoided this late in the evening, of course, but the food lover in me finds it difficult to say no to quality gelato. The eternal struggle of man, I guess! Anyway, it is very nice to be here these first days of summer.
Back in Podgorica
After another very interesting day listening to farmers and extension workers, I am now back in Podgorica. The weather is perfect! I have a busy week in front of me but I work with very good and committed people so I really look forward to it. And I look forward to the food, of course! Montenegro has the best seafood risotto and I always have it at least twice when here. And then there is the vegetables and cheese, which are wonderful. Dinner soon… In the meantime, here is the view from my hotel:
































